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There are a number of clues you can use to successfully date antique and vintage brooches and pins. This usually begins with looking at things like clasps and hinges, since certain types are known to have been used during specific periods in time. In addition to examining the components and findings, you'll want to look at the overall style, examine for signs of repair, and use a jeweler's loupe to locate any identifying marks present as you're dating jewelry. Use the basics below to help you start learning how to identify and date a number of different types of antique and vintage brooch and pin styles. This is a type of pin used to secure a sash at a lady's hip during the late s when the fad of wearing a sash over the shoulder and across bosom imitating Queen Victoria or around the waist became popular. Most examples have very thick pin stems to allow for penetrating several layers of fabric. Many, but not all, resemble buckles from the front like the example shown here.
It was at this time that such items as machine-made curb bracelets first appeared on the market. Some of the most popular gems of this period were sapphires, diamonds, spinels and peridots.
Victorian jewelry, victorian necklace, gothic victorian, victorian pendant, gothic necklace, gothic jewelry, elegant victorian oOMySweetNightmareOo 5 out of 5 stars $ Favorite Add to See similar items + More like this. Best Ruby Earrings - Red - Victorian Jewelry - Dangle - CAMBRIDGE Red. This is a nice trick to know when determining the date of Victorian jewelry. Grand Period (ca. ) Agate and diamond bracelet, ca. s. Everything changed with the death of Prince Albert. The heartbroken Queen donned black clothing and went into mourning. Her taste for jewelry reflected her deep sorrow, as well. Victorian jewelry was created during the period that Queen Victoria reigned over England while Edwardian jewelry was created during the rule of King Edward VII. The Victorian era is roughly divided into the Romantic Period, lasting from to , the Grand Period, lasting from to , and the Aesthetic Period from to , and.
Designs of dragons, crescent moons and stars were also quite popular. This was also the decade which saw platinum begin to be used in jewellery. Quite a lot of Victorian jewellery has survived, due to mass production in this era.
It was used on everything ranging from small Victorian bar pins to large sash pins (see above). The most common early version of the "C" clasp used prior to the s looks more like a curled wire. Pieces incorporating the earlier style also have a tube-shaped hinge for the pin stem, and sometimes the point of the pin stem will extend beyond. Oct 24, Karen is an artist, creator, and writer who loves antique jewelry. Jewelry mirrors time, culture, and societal values. It reflects the taste and attitude of every period in history. Luckily, there are definitely clues that can be used in deciphering how old your jewelry is. The older and more rare the piece of jewelry, the more valuable it will be. Find your significant other on the best online dating service. All beautiful ladies are gathered here on Victoria Hearts. Meet international singles now!
This would include a large portion of costume pieces, which were very popular. Outlined below are guidelines to help you date Victorian jewellery. In a new English law required that jewellers mark their pieces to show the gold content. It is after this law that we start to see 9K, 12K and 15K begin to be used.
From onwards we also see platinum beginning to be used in Victorian jewellery due to advances in technology, before very little platinum was used. Another important year in this period was Which saw the invention of silver plating. This combined with advances in mass production, allowed huge quantities of jewellery to be produced at a low cost.
These types of cuts were commonplace right up to the mid-Victorian era. After that, we begin to see more highly faceted stones, containing 58 or more facets. From onwards highly refractive glass became available in Europe. The use of refractive glass in place of gems from then on was common. Which does not detract from the value of these Victorian items, due to the level of craftsmanship which went into each piece.
To determine if an item contains a gemstone or glass.
How to Identify and Date Old Brooch Styles
Look at the item through a jewellers loupe, if bubbles are seen then it is glass. These labour saving items were commonly used and are an accurate way to date. In the case of a brooch, if the pin extends beyond the brooch. It would normally be from the mid to late Victorian era.
The safety pin was invented inwhich was followed by the trombone clasp in In screw back earrings were invented. Up to this point, it was normally fish hook style wire used.
The spring bolt clasp was first used in This was then followed by the spring ring clasp in All orders will be processed as normal. Victorian Fashion. Illustrated below are some of the important dates of Victorian Jewellery. Trombone Clasp Screw back earrings Spring bolt Hinged earring wire s.
Safety pin catch Cultured pearls Most examples have very thick pin stems to allow for penetrating several layers of fabric. Many, but not all, resemble buckles from the front like the example shown here. Common examples are made of brass, enameled or painted base metal, or silver-plated base metal.
Sep 20, This is especially important when the jewelry has no hallmarks or maker's marks. NOTE: This is the final article in my four-part series on how to identify and date vintage jewelry. You can read the other articles in this series here: Part 1: Vintage Jewelry Marks: Help for Dating Your Vintage Jewelry. The term "Victorian" refers broadly to the British art and culture produced during this time. Historians often divide the reign of Britain's longest reigning monarch into three parts: the Early Victorian or Romantic, the Middle Victorian or Grand, and the Late Victorian or Aesthetic . The Victorian period began on the 20th of June When princess Victoria became Queen at the age of She reigned as Queen of Great Britain for 64 years, until her death on the 22th of January The later part of the Victorian era coincides with the Belle Epoque era .
This type of simple "C" clasp or catch can be found on brooches dating primarily to the s although some carryover designs in the early s incorporate this finding as well. It was used on everything ranging from small Victorian bar pins to large sash pins see above.
5 Clues to Help Identify the Date of Jewelry
The most common early version of the "C" clasp used prior to the s looks more like a curled wire. Pieces incorporating the earlier style also have a tube-shaped hinge for the pin stem, and sometimes the point of the pin stem will extend beyond the edge of the brooch.
Some pieces of inexpensive jewelry made during the s and through the decades since then have used a variation of the "C" clasp that is more square looking than rounded. Be sure to look at the overall style and materials when dating pieces using "C" catches.
A collar pin is a metal fastener that connects the two sides of a shirt collar by passing underneath the tie. It can take the form of a large safety pin, or be shaped like a bar, either with clasps on either end or two spheres or cubes on either end, that unscrew and pass-through holes in the collar similar to a bar cufflink. This type of pin was developed in the early s as a means of holding the ends of the newly fashionable turn-down collar in place and could be simple or adorned with jewels.
They grew increasingly ornamental as opposed to functional as the 20th century wore on. They were primarily used by men, though when first introduced, women used them as well when wearing collared blouses.
It was worn similarly to a brooch, but with a clip mechanism instead of a pin stem to attach it to clothing. The underside of the clip usually contains prongs to hold it securely in place. Dress clips were made of popular materials of the day including Bakelite like the example shown here and pot metal.
Larger versions were sold singly. Smaller examples were often sold in pairs or sometimes as part of a "duette" see below.
Dating victorian jewelry
The more petite clip duos were worn in various ways including at the bottom corners of square necklines. They can sometimes be confused with shoe clips. The first branded Duettes were designed and manufactured by Coro in in Art Deco styles. These clever mechanisms held two small dress clips in place to make a brooch or could be removed to wear clipped on to a garment either singly or in pairs.
Coro also made Duettes with small double-pronged clips especially during the s, but there was some carryover into the s as with the Coro angel birthstone pieces like the one shown here.
Collectors have adopted the generic name "duette" when referencing this type of convertible jewelry. Fur clip is the collector's nickname for what manufacturers referred to as a pin clip when they were newly made. It is a double-pronged mechanism that was widely used in the late s through the s, although there was some lingering use in the s. As with dress clips, the larger versions of pin clips were usually sold singly.
Mottos, Messages, and Gem Lore in Victorian Jewelry
Some smaller pairs of pin clips were also marketed, but they are not as common unless found as part of a duette. The lower ornament, which either clicks or screws into place, is detachable allowing the connecting pin to be slipped through the garment.
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